A super clone watch that has stood the test of time with minor improvements over the years has become an icon in the watch world and a highly sought-after model. What makes this watch desirable? You’ll learn more about the history of the Rolex Submariner, technical features, and pricing in our guide to give you a better understanding of the icon.
A Deep Dive into History:
The Submariner made its debut in 1953, conceived as a timepiece for divers during a period when recreational diving was gaining popularity. Notably, the underwater films of Jacques Cousteau played a role in pushing scuba diving into the mainstream and influencing the design of the Submariner.
While not the official pioneer of dive watches, the Rolex Submariner achieved a significant milestone by being the first watch capable of withstanding depths of 100 meters, featuring a rotatable bezel for diver convenience. Before it became available for purchase, the Submariner underwent a rigorous 5-month testing phase at the Institute for Deep-Sea Research in Cannes.
The initial model, reference 6204, marked the introduction of the ‘Submariner’ branding on the dial. Measuring 37mm, it showcased pencil-style hour and minute hands along with a distinctive lollipop-style seconds hand. The references 6205 and 6200, released simultaneously, featured varying water resistance levels, with the 6200 boasting an impressive 200m resistance.
Evolution Unveiled: Improvements Over Time:
Over its 67-year production span, the Submariner has seen incremental updates, adapting to advancements in watchmaking. The first decade witnessed the introduction of various references, each incorporating different movements and design tweaks. The 15-minute hash marks on the bezel became a regular feature with the release of the reference 5510 in 1958.
The transition to a more modern appearance occurred with the introduction of the reference 5512 in 1959. This marked the expansion of the case size from 36mm to 40mm, the inclusion of crown guards, the adoption of the ‘Mercedes’ style handset, and the appearance of the “Superlative Chronometer, Officially Certified” on the dial. The 5512 remained in production until 1979.
The reference 5513, a No-Date version produced from 1962 to 1989, lacked COSC certification. The Submariner Date, introduced in 1967 as reference 1680, signified a crucial change with the addition of a date function. This seemingly minor alteration transformed the watch from a pure diving tool to a status symbol and collector’s item.
In the early 1980s, the five-digit references were introduced, bringing updated movements, sapphire crystals, and increased water resistance to 300m. A notable shift occurred in 2009 when Cerachrom replaced aluminum on the bezel, providing a fade-proof and scratch-proof material. The subsequent 2010 update introduced the six-digit series, featuring the ‘Super Case’ design, giving the watch a bulkier appearance.
Modern Elegance:
The year 2020 witnessed another update with the introduction of the 12661X and 124060 references, marking an increase in size to 41mm. The movements were upgraded to the caliber 3235 for the date version and the caliber 3230 for the no-date model. The Rolex Hulk was retired, making way for new models, including a black dial/green bezel variant, and a black dial/blue bezel model. The Submariner continues to be offered in various materials such as Oystersteel, Yellow Gold, Rolesor, and White Gold.
The Allure of the Rolex Submariner:
Rolex Submariner is a very cool watch! A lot of famous people like James Bond and celebrities wear it. It looks simple and classy. People really love the Rolex Submariner because it’s not super fancy, and you can wear it with all kinds of clothes. It’s like a super cool watch that always stays in style!
Exploring Notable References:
The Rolex Submariner watch is really, really old—almost 70 years! The Rolex Submariner has been around for a super long time, and there were many different ones. Each watch was special and had its own cool things that made it unique. It’s like they were all special in their own way! Imagine the Rolex Submariner watches as a big family.
COMEX Collaboration:
The collaboration with French diving specialists, COMEX, resulted in a Submariner with a Helium Escape Valve, developed in partnership with Doxa. Approximately 150 of these models are believed to be available today.
6538 James Bond Submariner:
The first Rolex worn by James Bond was the reference 6538, distinguishing itself with no crown guards and an oversized winding crown. Owned by Sean Connery, it paved the way for other Rolex models in subsequent Bond films.
1680 Yellow Gold (1971-1979):
Following the success of the first yellow gold Submariner in 1969, Rolex released the blue dial/blue bezel variant in 1971, with aluminum bezels and dials gradually fading to varying shades of blue and purple over time.
1680 Red Submariner (1969-1973):
Released briefly with red ‘Submariner’ lettering on the dial, this model has become highly sought after by collectors due to its limited production time and frequent dial replacements during servicing.
16610 (1989-2010):
One of the most enduring references, the Rolex Submariner 16610 features a classic 40mm dial, luminescent hands, white gold circled hour markers, and a sapphire crystal. Its 21-year production span showcases its versatility, suitable for scuba diving and black-tie events alike.
16610LV ‘Kermit’ (2003-2010):
Released to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the Submariner, the 16610LV introduced a green bezel, a departure from the previous stainless steel models with black bezels. Collectors affectionately named it the ‘Kermit.’
116610LV ‘Hulk’ (2010-2020):
Replacing the ‘Kermit,’ the 116610LV ‘Hulk’ featured a green dial and a green ceramic bezel, earning its nickname from the Marvel superhero. Its slightly larger size contributed to the ‘Hulk’ moniker. Discontinued in 2020, it was succeeded by the 126610LV.
116619 White Gold ‘Smurf’ (2008-2020):
Debuting in 2008, the reference 116619 celebrated the 65th anniversary of the Submariner and the 100th anniversary of Rolex. Nicknamed the ‘Smurf’ for its bright blue and white coloring, it was discontinued in 2020, replaced by a new white gold model with a black dial and blue bezel.
Pricing Insights:
The pricing of a Rolex Submariner varies between the new and pre-owned markets. A new steel, no-date variant starts at $8,100, escalating to almost $40,000 for the white gold black dial/blue bezel version.
On the secondary market, prices begin around $10,000, influenced by factors such as the reference number, materials, and the inclusion of the box and papers. Most pre-owned Submariners fall within the $12,000 – $20,000 range, with precious metals and gemstone versions commanding higher prices.
The most expensive Submariner to date was sold in 2018 for $1,068,500.
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